Ski touring to Elk Lakes
Scenery:
Beautiful high mountain pass, glaciers, hanging icefalls, and lakes
Trail type:
Track set trail to Elk Lakes turnoff, some steep sections
Difficulty:
Intermediate with some steeper hills
Distance:
Twelve kilometres each way
As the morning sun began to warm the valley leading to Elk Pass, we heaved our backpacks onto our backs and began a three-day ski trip to Elk Lakes. The longer, warmer days of March were ideal for travel, and the Elk Lakes cabin would make a great base for explorations of the area. This twelve-kilometre ski trip is about the right distance for a leisurely getaway.
We skied from the Elk Pass parking lot, up the track-set trail. Our backcountry skis were just narrow enough to fit in the tracks, and we enjoyed the sensation of kicking and gliding up the trail. Blue sky and white mountains beckoned in the distance. We were enchanted by the scenery, the frost-crystals on bushes, ice-bordered streams, and rugged mountains.
Just past the Blueberry Hill intersection, we came to tracks leading through an open meadow. Although not as smooth as the track set trail, this would avoid a long climb to the summit of Elk Pass and part of the steep descent under a power line. In addition to the ski tracks, we saw many animal tracks, from moose, to wolf, to snowshoe hare.
Another bonus of the open meadow is the feeling of wildness, away from the track set trails. We stopped for lunch in the meadow, and set up an impromptu dining room in the snow, complete with Thermarest seats, skis for a table, and a meal served from a Thermos. The view more than made up for the lack of dining elegance, with a priceless view of white mountains and blue glaciers.
Back on the trail, we glided through a forested glade which led to the challenging and exhilarating descent down to the Elk Lakes cabin. We settled into the cabin by mid-afternoon, and then headed out for a ski to Lower Elk Lake. This short three kilometre return trail was a perfect before-dinner ski, and we enjoyed the feeling of travelling without our bigger packs. We followed a creek for a short distance, and then wound through the forest to the lake. The lake was set in a deep bowl, surrounded by a steep cliff on one side and bordered by forest on the others. Open water at the outlet reflected mountains and sky.
We arrived back at the cabin, pleasantly tired and ready for a hearty supper. This evening we shared the 10-person cabin with just one other couple. We hauled water from the nearby creek, chopped some firewood, and then settled in for wine and cheese as we began to prepare a gourmet supper. The extra room in our packs from not carrying pots, stove, and fuel was taken up with curry noodles, fresh vegetables, frozen chicken … and wine!
The mellow, yellow light of the propane lamps and the orange glow from the glass door of the wood-burning stove created a perfect mood for a quiet dinner. The other couple in the cabin also spoke in hushed tones, hesitant to speak more loudly and shatter the peace of this special place. The cabin has had its share of raucous evenings with large groups, but by choosing a weekday night we avoided the crowds. We played a quiet game of crib while enjoying a cup of hot chocolate, then settled down for the night.
We woke the next morning to another blue-sky day, and enjoyed a leisurely morning in the cabin as the sun began to soften the spring snow. A hearty Mexican omelette fuelled us for a day of exploring, and by mid-morning we were back on the trail to Lower Elk Lake. The trail was still fast in the shaded forest, and it wasn’t long before we passed our turnaround point from last evening.
Now we were in new country, following the summer trail along the creek between Lower and Upper Elk Lakes. Our steel-edge back-country skis were great for the winding, steep trail, and the rolling terrain offered a good workout. Our efforts were amply rewarded when we reached Upper Elk Lake, bordered on one side by high, rugged mountains and curtains of blue frozen waterfalls.
The ski down the two-kilometre lake didn’t take long on the smooth, flat surface, and we stopped for lunch at the far end. We were intrigued to see snow-covered ski tracks following the summer trail towards the Petain Basin. The open valley presented low avalanche danger, so we continued along the trail. We skied silently, awed by the surrounding peaks, glaciers, and blue falls hanging from rock walls. The trail ended at a small canyon with a close-up view of the Petain Glacier.
Our return trip was easier as we followed our fresh tracks, and we reached the cabin tired, but content to have explored a new area. Another gourmet meal, then we climbed into to our sleeping bags, with dreams of blue glaciers, white mountains, and frozen waterfalls.
Our third morning brought light snow and grey sky. With the view of mountains obscured by cloud, we focused on closer sights. The wing-marks of a small bird told a story in the snow, and willow bushes were just beginning to bud with soft-grey blossoms. Farther down the trail, we saw a pair of grouse wandering from bush to bush as they dined on the new growth.
We took a short detour along Fox Creek, and were entertained by a curious pine marten, who came closer and closer as we stood still. The small, brown animal darted to another tree, and then came closer again to see what these strange creatures with long narrow feet were.
The ski down the winding trail along Fox Creek was a fitting end to our trip, with fast corners, narrow snow-covered bridges, and views of dark water in snowy hollows. We arrived back at the parking lot, feeling as if we had been away for a week rather than just a few days. For scenery, solitude, and skiing adventure without too much effort we give this trip top marks!
How to get there
From Calgary, take Highway 1 west to the Kananaskis Trail (Highway 40). Turn right onto Kananaskis Lakes road and continue to Elk Pass parking lot.
The ski trail follows the Elk Pass trail up to the power line, then turns right down the power line trail to Elk Lakes Cabin. A trail crosses back and forth under the power line through the forest, and is less steep than the trail directly down the hill.
An alternate route heads off to the right through an open meadow just past the Blueberry Hill junction. If this trail has been skied by others, it is a good choice for those with good route finding skills.
Maps
The Kananaskis Lakes map published by Gem Trek Publishing shows ski trails, topography, the route to Elk Lakes Cabin and other useful information.
Books
The Kananaskis Country Trail Guide, Volume 1, by Gillean Daffern contains maps of the area, trail descriptions, and other information about the area.
Reservations
Don’t forget to book your spot with the Alpine Club of Canada for the Elk Lakes Cabin. When you book you will be given a combination for the door lock and other information about the cabin.
Tips
If possible, avoid weekends and long weekends as the cabin is often busy with larger groups.
No need to bring cooking pots, plates, or dinnerware as the cabin is fully-equipped.
No need to bring a camp stove or lamps, as the cabin has propane lamps, stoves, and a wood-burning stove. Bring matches and some newspaper to light the wood-burning stove and propane lamps.
Bring a wide range of waxes for multi-day trips as conditions can change substantially over three days.
There are some steeper sections on the power line trail that might be better to walk down if conditions are icy. Steel-edged backcountry skis are ideal for the downhill sections.
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