Mount Assiniboine Escape

Scenery:
Beautiful high alpine meadows, mountains and lakes.

Wow-Factor:
An exciting helicopter ride and stunning views add up to a high wow-factor!

Difficulty:
Intermediate with some steeper hills.  The hike out is long and arduous, but an option is to take the helicopter both ways.

If you have never taken a helicopter trip to an alpine getaway, Mount Assiniboine is the ideal location for many reasons.  It is not a long flight, so the cost is not high, and the view of alpine meadows and towering peaks from the air is breathtaking.  Most of all, the pleasure of carrying wine, good food, and a backpack of gear by helicopter, instead of on your back for twenty-six kilometres, is worth the price of admission alone!

We began our journey at the Canmore heliport, climbing aboard the 8-passenger helicopter at the civilized hour of 11am.  Fifteen minutes of oohs, aaahs, and inspiring scenery later, we touched down at the grassy helipad at Mount Assiniboine.  Sepp Renner greeted the passengers, as he has been doing for more than three decades, and helped unload gear from the helicopter.

Several passengers were going to the Mount Assiniboine Lodge, while we were headed to less expensive and more rustic accommodation at the Naiset Huts.  For less than $25 per night, visitors get to sleep in a cozy little log cabin and share another cabin with propane stoves and a large cooking and dining area.

Once we had settled into our cabin, we headed out to visit the alpine lakes in the area.  Our first stop was Magog Lake with a reflection of Mount Assiniboine.  From there we hiked along a sparkling creek to Sunburst Lake, then to Cerulean Lake, aptly named for its astonishing shade of deep blue.  At the end of our trek was Elizabeth Lake, an emerald gem set in a green bowl and bordered by a rocky shoreline.

Back at the cook cabin we unpacked luxuries that we would not have carried on our backs, from cheese and crackers, to a bottle of wine, fresh vegetables and chicken for a memorable meal.  A freshly brewed espresso coffee, complete with chocolate fondue and strawberries, followed for dessert.  Sure beats roughing it with boil-in-the-bag cardboard meals!

An after-dinner stroll through an open meadow was a pleasant end to the day before we headed to our small log cabin.  We shared the cabin with three fishermen, and soon realized that our best accessory was the earplugs we had brought!  If your cabin-mates happen to snore, the earplugs cut the noise to a tolerable level.  For those who prefer tenting, there is a campground a kilometre away.

After a hearty Spanish omelette and Espresso coffee in the cook cabin, we hiked south to Wonder Pass to get a view of Marvel and Gloria Lakes.  As we gained altitude, pine trees gave way to Larch just beginning to turn colour with the cooler nights.  Farther along, we found an unmarked trail that led up a rocky valley to Terrapin Ridge behind Mount Assiniboine.  As we climbed higher, the trail followed an inviting alpine stream.  Flowers of endless colours were strewn across the high slopes, and rivulets of water cascaded down natural rock-gardens of moss and saxifrage.

Our hike back was punctuated by views of mountains and sky, fields of alpine flowers, emerald lakes and streams.  I felt as if I was on the set of The Sound of Music.  Kindness for my audience prevented me from bursting into a rendition of “The hills are alive!”

On our third day, we packed a lunch for a long day of hiking.  We headed to Nub Peak, and a long, steady climb up to the rocky ridge.  The view was astonishing, with four emerald lakes in a row: Elizabeth, Cerulean, Sunburst and Magog.  Mount Assiniboine, looking much like the Matterhorn from this perspective, towered high above the valley.

We ate our lunch perched on rocks, with alpine meadows for a tablecloth and mountains and sky for place settings.  We shared the narrow ridge with marmots basking in the sun, small pikas scurrying back and forth, songbirds, and even butterflies.  Like the marmots, we basked in the sun and enjoyed the view before our long descent back to the valley.

After another gourmet evening in the cook shelter, we headed to our sleeping bags early as our last day would be a long hike out.  On our fourth morning we rose early to pack our camping gear to be sent back to Canmore by helicopter.  Many hikers choose the short helicopter ride out, but we donned hiking boots for the 26km hike out to Sunshine Village.  It was a perfect day for hiking, cool and cloudless, and by leaving just after dawn we had plenty of time to enjoy the views on our trip out.

Along the way we crossed a vast alpine meadow with families of Columbia ground squirrels announcing our passing.  The scenery changed as we hiked past dark caves near Og Lake, the mysterious Valley of Rocks, then across the steep open slope above Simpson Valley.  We were just past the half-way point, and were happy that our packs were light, and most of our gear had gone out by helicopter.

After lunch we changed into lighter hiking shoes to give our feet a break, and reached Citadel Pass in early afternoon.  From here, the rest of the hike led us through the wildflower-filled meadows of Citadel Pass, Great Divide Pass, and Sunshine Meadows.   After nine hours of walking, we arrived at Sunshine Village by 4:30 … with an hour to spare before the last shuttle-bus headed down to the parking lot.

We arrived back home, pleasantly tired after our three-day sojourn, with many pleasant memories of alpine flowers, wildlife, and stunning views.  For scenery and wow-factor this trip was one of the best we had experienced!

How to get there:

There are many ways to get to Mount Assiniboine.  For more information consult the B.C. Provincial Park website or the Canadian Rockies Trail Guide.

Maps:

Banff and Mount Assiniboine map published by Gem Trek Publishing.

Books:

The Canadian Rockies Trail Guide will give you detailed information on trails in the area.

Tips:

Alpine Helicopters can fly your camping gear to Mount Assiniboine from Canmore or Mount Shark on Wednesdays, Fridays, and Sundays throughout the summer.  You must book a Naiset Hut in advance through Mount Assiniboine Lodge.

We usually bring frozen meat for the first dinner.  Wrap it in a plastic bag, then an odour-proof container and bury it deep in your pack so it will thaw slowly.

If you hike the trail from Mount Assiniboine to Sunshine Village be sure you have a supply of fresh water when you hike the Valley of the Rocks.  There is no water source late season.  Check shuttle bus times to make sure you make it to the last bus … and allow at least nine hours so you don’t have to rush the 26km hike out.

Earplugs are an important sleeping accessory for any shared cabins!

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