Kayak camping on the B.C. Coast

Scenery:
White sandy beaches, wave-sculpted rock formations, and tree-topped islands.

Paddling conditions: 
Protected ocean paddling with short open water crossings.

Difficulty: 
Intermediate paddling with loaded kayaks.

As we surveyed the pile of gear on the beach beside our kayaks, we wondered how we would fit our tent, sleeping bags and mats, clothing, food, cooking pots, stove and fuel, and finally 25 kg of water into our kayaks. Slowly, but surely, we managed to cram all the gear into the narrow hulls, with enough room left over for a bottle of wine! We were ready for a three-day kayak-camping outing at Blueberry Point on Valdes Island in the Gulf Islands.

During a previous trip on the West Coast, we had discovered several wonderful places for kayaking, and people had told us about the possibility of camping on Valdes Island. This year we made it our priority. After a couple of short outings in the area of Cedar-on-the-Sea to get use to paddling on the ocean we headed out to Blackberry Point with our kayaks loaded with everything we needed for our camping sojourn.

The weather was warm, with a light breeze, with a promising forecast for the same kind of weather for the next few days.  As we passed by Round Island we were welcomed by a group of seals basking in the sun while waiting for the high tide. Then we saw cormorants all aligned as if they were hanging on the clothesline drying their wings in the wind.

When we reached DeCourcy Island, the tide was high enough to paddle through the channel called The Hole in the Wall. As the wind seemed to be picking up we chose to cross directly to Valdes Island to avoid turbulent waters. With our kayaks heavily loaded we preferred to play safely!

After 45 minutes of sustained effort, we saw an inviting small, white sandy beach. We took this opportunity to land and stretch our legs, then we continued paddling along the West side of Valdes Island. Once again we were amazed to see tall walls of sandstone sculpted by the waves over hundreds of years. Only a work of extreme precision could have achieved such fine features!

After a few more stops here and there to enjoy the scenery, we finally arrived at Blackberry Point, our destination. We landed on a white shell beach with blue water lapping against the shore ... and felt like we were on a sunny beach in the Caribbean!

In no time, we set up our camp at a small meadow facing the ocean. On the shore, we found the remnants of a raft carried there by the waves. We took advantage of it to set up our kitchen and dining room. With all this paddling, a good meal was in order! After our three-course meal accompanied with a glass of wine, we went for a walk along the beach with the orange sun setting for the night and the moon rising to shine on the dark blue water.

The next morning, we woke to the salty smell from the sea and the raspy call of seagulls. After a hearty breakfast, we went to explore the shore; crabs of all sizes and colours, small fish with black stripes, abrasives barnacles and starfish lived in this shallow neighbourhood created by the low tide. In the afternoon, we paddled to the south end of the island and took advantage of the high tide to cross Porlier Passage to Galiano Island. On our way back, we stopped along the shore, right at a luscious blackberry patch ... and discovered why this was called Blackberry Point. They were large, delicious, and as sweet as they could be!

Later that evening, the calmness of the sea was so inviting that we decided to go paddling once more. On our way back, as the sun was setting, the sky and the sea transformed themselves in a giant watercolour painting that constantly changed as the blue and orange mixed together in infinite shades. It was with these marvellous images in mind and the quietness of the area that we silently paddled back to our white sandy beach.

On our third day, with some regret we paddled away from Blackberry Point. After saying goodbye to those with whom we shared this little paradise, we crossed over to Pylades Island, an island we had the pleasure of paddling around for the first time. Along the way, many sea animals and birds honoured us with their presence, adding a joyful note to a kayak-camping trip already full of wonderful memories.

How to get there:

From Nanaimo, take Highway the Island Highway south to the Cedar turnoff.  Then wind through farming country to Cedar-by-the-Sea or several other boat launches in the area.  A good map or guidebook is essential to find your way to the boat launch.

Maps:

Coastal maps are available at most bookstores and marinas in the area.  Tide charts are also essential.

Books:

For more information about kayaking this area we recommend Easykayaker by Paul Grey and Gary Backlund.

Tips:

Be aware that the wind can make open water crossing quite a challenge.  It’s best to check the marine forecast for the area, and be aware of tides, and currents through channels. 

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