Cycling the Kettle Valley Railway

Scenery:
Railway tunnels and trestle bridges, mountains, orchards and lakes

Road condition and traffic: 
Fair trail surface, with some rougher stretches where ATV's have used the trail

Difficulty:
Intermediate to difficult, depending on length of trip

It seemed fitting that the beginning of our bicycle journey on the historic Kettle Valley Railway began at Mile “0” from the old, red railway station at Midway B.C.  For the next four days, we would literally pedal through history as we cycled along the old rail bed.

After leaving our car in the parking lot provided for bikers, we had switched to loaded bicycles for the 215 kilometre journey to Penticton.  With front and rear panniers bulging with camping gear and food, we pedalled away, hoping our bikes and our legs would be up to the challenge.

The gentle two percent grade of the old railway followed the shoreline of the Kettle River, through groves of Ponderosa pine and a patchwork quilt of pastures and farms.  Our first day was perfect for cycling, with cool temperatures, blue sky and no wind.  We stopped every few kilometres to open and close a farm gate, and to visit four-legged friends, from horse, to cows, and even some mules along the way. 

As we cycled, yellow and white butterflies flew up from the grass along the trail, and hundreds of grasshoppers jumped up in front of us.  Now and then, we startled a snake basking in the sun.  There were also many opportunities to see birds, from Great Blue Herons standing perfectly still as they hunted for fish, ducks wading in the shallow ponds, and many flickers and songbirds serenading us along the trail.

By mid-afternoon, we stopped at the KVR cyclist’s rest stop built by Paul Lautard, an 88-year old ex-railway employee.  Paul entertained us with stories of the railway, and gave us a tour of artefacts and a replica caboose that he had built.  Paul kindly topped up our water supply, and we continued on our way.

Shortly after our visit, we pedalled into the Rhone Canyon, a deep gorge through multi-coloured sandstone and bedrock.  A rustic campground appealed to us on the banks of the river, and decided to stop a bit short of our goal for the night.  We enjoyed a good supper with our traditional glass of wine (we had supply for one night only!) and chocolate for dessert.

We rose from the tent on our second day to see the clouds moving away for another sunny day.  By late morning we had reached Beaverdell, and made a detour to the oldest operating hotel in B.C. for a hearty second breakfast.  With all the pedalling, we had no concerns about how we would dispense with the extra calories!  From Beaverdell, we shared the trail with several trucks and ATV’s, and were pleased to find that all were courteous and pulled over to let us pass.

The trail continued past Carmi Station, past old water towers and railway structures, with an easy 0.9% grade that led us steadily higher country.  The rail bed led through a thick forest of fir and pine trees, with glades of birch and aspen where the trail was blanketed with golden leaves.  Autumn is a great time to cycle the trail, with cooler weather and fall colours along the way.

After a long day of riding, we arrived at the Hydraulic Lake Campground.  We set up camp quickly as dark, menacing clouds were gathering.  It was colder at this higher altitude, and we appreciated the warmth of the down vests we had stuffed in the bags as an afterthought.

Our third morning started with light rain drumming on the tent fly.  We dressed warmly to cycle in the mist to Myra Canyon.  As we entered the Myra-Belleview Provincial Park, the trail surface improved considerably as no vehicles are permitted in the park.   The misty day created a tranquil effect that encouraged us to take time to savour each moment. 

We were awed by the work of the engineers and crews who pushed the railway through this canyon in the early 1900s with 18 trestle bridges, two long tunnels and many rock cuts. The Myra Canyon Trestle Restoration Society had restored all the trestle bridges to their former glory after a fire had roared through the area in 2003.  In addition, each bridge now had a boardwalk on top of the beams for cycling, and side rails for safety.

Several bridges were more than fifty metres above the canyon floor, and more than two hundred metres long, each supported by a criss-cross structure of wooden crossbeams.  The bridges had been constructed to carry the rail line across wide gaps, deep cleavages, and depressions in the canyon walls.  Each bridge was built on a curve, with an incline or decline to weave the rail line through the mountainous terrain.

One long, curving trestle was so high that it took our breath away. The clack, clack, clack of our tires across the wooden beams was reminiscent of the sound of a train from years gone by.  As we rode across, Jacinthe reminded me "Don't look down!"  I didn't need the warning!

After the Myra Canyon, we continued our ride along a rougher washboard trail towards Chute Lake, our destination for the evening.  That evening, we were happy to stay in one of the cabins at the Chute Lake Resort instead of camping in the rain.  The rustic cabin was cozy, with the radiant warmth of an old wood-burning range to dry our gear and clothing.  Two glasses of wine brought to us by the proprietor warmed us as well.

By morning, it was still raining lightly.  After some discussion about how much it could possibly rain, we donned raingear and cycled through a misty, surreal world of low cloud.   Now and then, Jacinthe would disappear in the mist, and then reappear as I pedalled closer.  We marvelled again at the skill of the engineers who laid out this railway through the Adra switchbacks, maintaining a gentle 2.2% grade all the way.

We stopped along the way to visit some of the rock ovens built by Italian stone masons so the crews could bake along the way, and could almost smell the tantalizing aroma of fresh bread.  As we passed the Glenfir switchbacks, the sky cleared and the sun warmed our backs, quickly drying any trace of the brief rain shower.  Aromas of sage and ponderosa pine filled the air as the valley warmed.

From our vantage point high on the mountainside, we had a good view of the green slopes of Naramata with its orchards and vineyards.  Then, as the rail bed descended the valley, we cycled through colourful apple, plum, and grape orchards, with trees laden with fruit ready for harvest. 

We were serenaded by birdsong as we arrived in Penticton, pleasantly tired from four days of cycling.  That evening, fortified with a good meal and brew at a small pub, we planned another few days cycling the Kettle Valley Railway in the Princeton area to complete our adventure.

How to get there

From Osoyoos, drive east on Highway 3 until you reach Midway.  There is scheduled daily bus service from Penticton to retrieve your car when you finish the trip.

Maps

Detailed maps and route information can be found in Cycling the Kettle Valley Railway by Dan and Sandra Langford, published by Rocky Mountain Books.

Accommodation

There are many campsites along the trail, and the trip can also be planned to take advantage of bed and breakfasts and cabins along the way.

Equipment

A mountain bike with front suspension and seat suspension is ideal for this trail as there are some rougher sections.  We equipped our Specialized Myka bikes with front and rear panniers and used Specialized cross-road tires that perform better than knobby trail tires on this mix of trail and roads.

Tips

For those who would rather go on day trips, the Myra Canyon section is the most spectacular.  Several outfitters in Penticton offer shuttle service to various starting points, as well as bicycle rentals.

If possible, avoid weekends and long weekends as there are more people on the trail, and can be ATV’s in some places.

Best time to go is May or September, when school is still in.  The weather is often too hot during July and August for cycling!

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