Cycling and hiking in the Rockies

Location:
Highway 93 north of Lake Louise, Alberta

Scenery:
Beautiful high mountains and lakes

Road condition and traffic:
Fair to good road surface, moderate traffic with courteous drivers

Difficulty:
Intermediate with some steeper hills

With the morning sun on our backs and the aroma of warming alpine flowers in the air, we pedalled our loaded road bikes past Herbert Lake, just north of Lake Louise, Alberta. We had just turned onto the scenic Icefields Parkway after a short ride along busier traffic of Highway 1.

We were beginning a three-day road bike trip on one of the most beautiful roads in Canada. The sunny, crisp morning was perfect for the climb up the mountain road past lakes and glaciers to Bow Pass. A breeze from behind was welcome as we pedalled our bikes, with 14kg of camping gear on front and rear panniers. We started slowly, getting into the rhythm of pedalling. Our first day would be 55 kilometres of mountain travel, and older legs need warming up more than in our youth!

The slower pace of bicycling allowed us to enjoy the sights and sounds along the way, from glistening glacier-clad mountains, to emerald-green alpine lakes, and birdsong from the forest beside the road.

After two hours and thirty kilometres of pedalling, we stopped at the Bow Lake picnic area for a hearty lunch. The July day had warmed up, but mountain breezes over the glaciers moderated the temperature. Back on our bikes, we pedalled up the Bow Pass … a six kilometre climb that made us glad we had several training days behind us.

We celebrated at the summit, and then began the fast run down the other side of Bow Summit. Another couple of hours of riding up and down smaller hills in the high mountains and we reached Waterfowl Campground, early enough to set up camp, and put our food in the metal lockers provided to keep wild creatures from dining on our supper.

A great way to end the first day of cycling is to hike the 4.6 kilometre trail to Cirque Lake, nestled in the bowl created by Midway, Stairway, and Aries peaks. A swim looked inviting until we tested the temperature of the glacier-fed lake! It was a picturesque location, well worth the hike up.

After a hike partway along the lakeshore, we headed back down the trail and arrived at our campground for a pre-supper snack of cheese and crackers with wine, a camp supper of Singapore chicken with veggies and noodles, then a camp-style chocolate fondue. The great thing about bike travel is that a few extra pounds don’t feel as heavy as backpacking!

As the sun dropped, the temperature fell quickly and we were glad we had brought down vests, toques, and mitts, even on our mid-summer trip. The camping facilities were great … quiet, with hot water and indoor washrooms, and best of all, no mosquitoes!

It was difficult to get out of our warm bags and face the chilly morning after a great sleep in our tent, but the prospect of getting back on our bikes and exploring more of this area helped us get going early. We set off with gear for the day, for a forty-kilometre out-and-back bike trip to Glacier Lake, just north of Saskatchewan Crossing. From here a short hike brings you to a beautiful jewel of an alpine lake deep in the mountains.

On our third day, we packed up our gear on the bikes and rode back towards Lake Louise. The fast run down from Bow Summit of two days earlier was replaced by a long climb. But once at the summit, it was all downhill from there! We were tempted to stop at the historic Num-Ti-Ja lodge at Bow Lake for a coffee and a pecan pie (calories that don’t count on a long bike ride!) then we continued back to Lake Louise.

All in all, a great ride in the Rockies, without the commitment of the long Jasper-Banff ride, and great side trips and views along the way. Reading our bike odometers, we were pleased to see our 153 kilometre journey had a 19km average … not bad for mountain riding with loaded road bikes!

How to get there:

From Calgary, take Highway 1 to Lake Louise. You can park at the public parking lot at the Husky gas station. Then cycle from Lake Louise on Highway 1 to Highway 93 North – the Columbia Icefield Parkway.

Maps:

The most useful map we found for cycling along Columbia Icefield Parkway is published by Park Canada. You will find a detailed route map from Jasper to the junction of Hwy 1 near Lake Louise. The Bow Lake and Saskatchewan Crossing map published by Gem Trek Publishing will indicate you points of Interest along the way.

Books:

If you want more The Canadian Rockies Trail Guide will give you detailed information on hiking trails in the Rockies.

Tips:

Make sure you have a few 50km cycling days before tackling longer rides like this with a loaded bike.

If possible, avoid weekends and long-weekends as the road becomes busier with cars and mobile-breadboxes!

At Waterfowl campground, we chose a campsite away from the road for less traffic noise and away from the lakeshore where it might be windier and colder than in the trees.

Many campgrounds provide lockers to store your food. Take advantage of them as it is safer for you and your food!

If you want to treat yourself, the Num-Ti-Ja Lodge offer a delicious pecan pie and other treats, as well as a quaint little gift shop.

Saskatchewan Crossing has a restaurant and store if you need any supplies.

Don’t forget your extra bike tubes, pump, and tool kit … after you leave Lake Louise you are on a remote mountain road with limited services.

Have a pleasant and safe journey.

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