Bicycling Drumheller... Hoodoos and History
Scenery:
Badlands and Hoodoos, with desert scenes along the way
Road condition and traffic:
Fair to good road surface, moderate traffic with courteous drivers
Difficulty:
Intermediate with some steeper hills
The steep, winding road descended from the rolling prairie grasslands of central Alberta, down through coloured layers of rock and sand, down through layers of history and prehistory into a land of Hoodoos and desert scenery. Dry warmth radiated from the valley walls and a huge dinosaur, teeth bared and clawed arms outstretched, greeted us as we reached Drumheller.
We arrived just after noon, and made a stop at the information center to pick up a map of roads and trails in the area. After leaving the car in one of the many parking lots in town, we switched to bicycles for a three-day journey back in time.
Our bicycle trip began as we pedalled north on highway 838 along the east side of the river towards the Royal Tyrell Museum. Wide shoulders, smooth pavement, and courteous drivers made cycling a pleasure as we passed multi-coloured Hoodoos, sage brush, and badlands. After cycling for six kilometres, we reached the museum and entered a world of dinosaurs, reptiles, plants, and amphibians from prehistoric times.
After a couple of hours in the cool depths of prehistory, we came back to the present and continued our bike tour to view the Badlands. Music from red-winged blackbirds, and a chorus of frogs accompanied us as we pedalled in the mid-day heat. With the wind behind us, we cycled up a long grade to get an astonishing view of the Red Deer River valley from the lip of Horsethief Canyon, ten kilometres north of the museum.
From our vantage point at the edge of the canyon, we saw layered gullies, coulees, and a lunar landscape of red and grey sandstone. Legend says that many horses had disappeared mysteriously into the canyon, to reappear later with a different brand on their flanks. We saw no horses roaming the valley, but took time to photograph the many flowers and smaller creatures that inhabited the area.
We cycled back to town for a refreshing shower at the EconoLodge, then headed out for pizza and beer to fulfill our cravings for liquid and carbohydrates after a long day of cycling in the desert air.
The next morning began with an uncertain sky, and dark clouds building on the horizon. After some discussion about how much it could possibly rain in a desert, we packed raingear and headed south-east on Highway 10, aptly named the Hoodoo Trail. Aromas of sage, blossoming apple and Mayflower trees filled the air. Tree swallows, nesting in the many little birdhouses along the way, serenaded us with their calls.
We reached our destination at the Atlas Coal Mine historic site, just past the town of East Coulee. This was the last of the mines in the area, and we were awed by the hardship of the miners’ life in this small settlement. After working a long shift underground toiling for coal, they would come up to sleep in a “hot-bunk” in a small cabin just vacated by another shift-worker.
A well-timed rain shower passed over as we rested at the mine site. As we pedalled back towards the Hoodoos, the sky cleared and the sun warmed our backs, quickly drying any trace of the brief rain shower. It was a great opportunity to spend some time exploring the Hoodoos, rock-capped sandstone pillars were formed by erosion over millions of years. Some towered up to 7 metres, and in Cree and Blackfoot traditions the Hoodoos were believed to be petrified giants who come alive at night to hurl rocks at intruders. It was a beautiful area, with a contrast of massive pillars towering above us and minute flowers at our feet.
On our way back to Drumheller, we detoured to the old Star Mine Suspension Bridge. These days, the long cable-supported footbridge across the Red Deer River is crossed only by tourists who want to relive the journey of the miners who crossed the bridge each day to access the Star Coal Mine.
Our third morning brought blue skies and warmer weather for a bike trip to the ghost town of Wayne, just southeast of Drumheller. It was a quiet back road, winding through a farming valley hemmed in by sandstone ridges. At one farm, baby sheep tottered unsteadily, following their mothers. Willow and aspen trees lined the road, and greening farm fields contrasted with the stark desert scenery higher in the valley.
Along the seven kilometre journey, we crossed eleven old wood-decked bridges as the road crossed and re-crossed the meandering river. This time of year the valley was alive with birdlife, from ducks on the quiet backwaters, to swallows and warblers calling from fence posts or swooping low over the fields.
We arrived at the old town site, a living ghost town with only 27 residents, although it had housed more than 2000 people when the mine was in operation. Only one business remained, almost unchanged in a hundred years ... the Rosedale Hotel and Last Chance Saloon. After parking our bikes against a railing of old wagon wheels, we walked into the saloon. It was like stepping into a living museum, with stuffed animals, old tools, snowshoes, guns, an old piano, and an old mechanical orchestra that played Big Band music.
We were greeted by the owner, dressed in cowboy attire, with a revolver strapped to his side who brought us two draft served in quart canning jars. The ice-cold beer was incredibly refreshing after our long hot ride! Not long after a group of tourists showed up, and he entertained the crowd with his guitar and country tunes.
After enjoying a bison burger, we toured the area and came across an old jailhouse with the words “Free Room” and “Free Grub” written on each side of the barred window. We’re not fussy, but preferred to head back to Drumheller!
We cycled back along the quiet back road, serenaded again by birdsong as we cycled through the valley. We arrived at the car, pleasantly tired from three days of cycling. For scenery, history, and pleasant riding Drumheller is a great getaway for bicycling or sightseeing along the way!
How to get there
From Calgary, drive north on Highway 2 until you reach the Highway 72/9 exit just north of Airdrie. Head east through rolling prairie until you descend into the Drumheller Valley.
Maps
Detailed maps can be found at www.traveldrumheller.com under the maps and guides tab. The Drumheller Valley map gives information on sites to see along the way. You can also pick up free maps at the visitor centre when you arrive.
Accommodation
The Econo Lodge Inn and Suites offers clean, quiet rooms at a reasonable price with a continental breakfast. Many rooms also have a fridge and microwave for budget-minded travellers. For reservations call 403-823-3322.
Tips
If possible, avoid weekends and long weekends as there is more traffic.
Best time to go is May or September, when school is still in. The weather is often too hot during July and August for cycling! Weekdays are best as the roads have less traffic.
The Royal Tyrell Museum is closed on Mondays. If you plan to hike in the valley, bring sturdy walking shoes (flip-flop sandals are not permitted on hikes on the Tyrell Museum pathways)
Don’t forget to bring insect repellent, as there are often mosquitoes during the spring season.
Bike tools and tire kit are essential for back-road travel.
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